I just put on some new rims on my car. Tightened the bolts and one of them snapped. it's now lodged real fucking bad in there. How hard is it to replace that part? Do I have to change bearings and shit inside if i do replace it?
TL:DR Shit's stuck pliers don't work.
I have seen that article, but no way it would grip the bolt at all.
I should invest in a torque wrench, yep. I have only recently taken up doing car maintenance on my own and tools are limited to a socket set, a ratchet and a breaker bar.
The saw/screwdriver option is OK, but I'd only try that with more of the bolt showing - looks like it sheared off really close to the back plate.
Also, if you're not careful with your saw, you can end up damaging parts around the bolt.
This guy knows... take the wheel off, hit the broken bolt with a hamme4, they are held in place by a head in the rear and small fins on the shaft that stop if from moving around while you have your wheel off, 2 decent blows and it will come out
The piece of shit bolt is only sticking out a bout a mil and a half, so i doubt that would work, sadly.
I have thought about drilling it. What if i gradually increase the drill bit size and just basically crush the bolt like a pringles can? I think that would give my pliers something better to grip at .
And if i destroy the threads i'm no more fucked than if the bolt was still stuck.
go rent an easy out from autozone. drill into center of bolt, turn easyout into the hole counter-clockwise. insert easy out into drill, remove bolt. p simple OP.
alternatively, you can drill the bolt out
>are you serious? just hit it with a hammer
>This guy knows... take the wheel off, hit the broken bolt with a hamme4, they are held in place by a head in the rear and small fins on the shaft that stop if from moving around while you have your wheel off, 2 decent blows and it will come out
As you can plainly see from the image it's a bolt, NOT a stud; hammering it is not an option.
Go to your choice of tools store and get a drill bit and an extractor. Drill through the bolt, put the extractor on a socket wrench, and back it out.
Heat will make it easier but not sure if you want to buy a MAPP tank and torch head for 1 bolt.
Both drill bit and extractor should be less than 15 dollars together
it looks like you tried to use lug bolts for alloy wheels on steelies. They are too long, you needed the shorter bolts that are made for the rim.
Now you need a whole new car to fix this problem.
Hold a lighter to the bolt, wait a few mins for the remnants to liquify, wait for it to spill out of the bore in liquid form. Pressure wash remaining liquid metal out before it seats into the threads. Boom.
Everyone telling you to drill it is not a mechanic. The studs are splined inside. I could tell you why and how and shit but all you really need to know is hammer + punch = removed stud. Get new stud + a spacer + a lot of never seize. Stud goes in hole, spacer over stud, then lug nut, then tighten until its pulled all the way back in
No faggot you are wrong. Hammer and punch. You obviously don't have the ability.
>I've replaced these before....
You do realize these aren't wheel studs? In the picture you can see the intact bolt and the other holes are threaded to accept BOLTS, not studs that are press fitted.
>No faggot you are wrong. Hammer and punch. You obviously don't have the ability.
Neither faggot I was replying to mentioned a punch (chisel would be a better option than a punch BTW), they said to hit it with a hammer presumably thinking it was a stud and could be pushed out the backside with a hammer, not a bolt.
>it looks like you tried to use lug bolts for alloy wheels on steelies. They are too long, you needed the shorter bolts that are made for the rim.
You do realize the bolt has to go through the rotor and the rim, right?
Ah... Well three bolts is plenty if you don't have to go far to a mechanic who can do it for you if it comes to that. Otherwise, try vise grips, or drill. It shouldn't really be all that tight in there as the tension is gone once the head broke off. Right now it's only held in by dirt and corrosion in the threads
OP here. From what i've read drilling it out or replacing the whole part are the most logical solutions here.
I assume a wired bosch-drill won't be powerful enough, so part-replacement is my only option here.
But before that happens i'll try the drilling and buy a penetrative oil and give it multiple showers. I only know of WD40. Will that do?
It looks like a stud that is driven in from the back. Sledge hammer on the back beside the stud and punch and hammer on the front. You should be able to drive it through then buy a new stud. 2 person job.
Your drill should be plenty.
Ah, well that's some shit there. If you brought it to me, I'd probably charge like 50 bucks to do it. It would be pretty easy in a fully equipped shop with a welder and shit. I'm a small business guy though and have no idea how mechanics are where you are
alloy rims are thicker so the lugs have an additional 6mm of non threaded shoulder, they bottom the threads out in the hub on steel wheels and break. You can see the wear marks in the hub where the wheel has been wobbling
Norway has no vehicle inspection laws? This sort of nonsense is explicitly examined in civilized country's.
I even put in one of the bolts to illustrate it was threaded, but it seems half the people here don't know what part we're talking here. I don't know if it's different in the US where you use lugs and lug nuts, but these are bolts and they thread in in the back.
I'm in Norway, and here we have no small time shops. I'd have to pay well over a hundred dollars at the chain shops if i took it to them. I try to do everything myself. I think being able to do shit yourself is valuable experience.
The rims are original MB rims, and so are the nuts.
Cars over five years or so are called in for examination every two years. We're one of the richest countries in the world when it comes to both GDP and quality of living, but nice try.
>I even put in one of the bolts to illustrate it was threaded, but it seems half the people here don't know what part we're talking here. I don't know if it's different in the US where you use lugs and lug nuts, but these are bolts and they thread in in the back.
Every vehicle I've worked on has had wheel studs, driven in from the back; break one, no big deal just hammer it out and drive in a new one. That's why I asked what kind of car this was, never seen one that used bolts instead of studs, obviously I've never worked on a Mercedes...
>I thought so as well, but there's a lip in the back, and it's dug real good into it. It's not only thread friction holding it in at this point.
loosen the castle nut holding the hub on and that will relieve any pressure on the broken bolt
I would day go to and ACE hardware store, they literally have everything, and get a counter clockwise threaded sheet metal screw. Then just drill a home slightly smaller than the screw through the center of the bolt and use it like a new head.
Not sure if you have ACE hardware in Norway though.
I deal with this shit all the time.
In terms of likely availability for amateur mechanic:
1. Hammer and screwdriver, tap it in the direction to turn it out.
2. Drill it out(Google intrustions for that because I ain't writing out something simple). Benefits: If you're a man with a garage and you don't own a drill then either buy one or kill yourself.
3. Weld a nut onto it. This is my favorite option
I just had the same shit happen the other day.
Tap it out with a hammer and put another one in.
You might have to grind an edge off of the new stud to make it fit.
Also bend the backing plate.
European cars in general use them. It's frustrating. They claim it's more resistant to wear, but I think the real reason is it's cheaper to manufacture a bold and thread a whole than to manufacture a stud, and lug nut.
This would work. I can drive with four bolts a week or two while it's on its way.
wheel studs are knurled as in the picture.
a sturdy c-clamp and a socket on back you can push them out the back.
to seat new ones stack a few washers on the front side and flip the nut over so its flat and tighten.
millennial's are such faggots.